Indigenous towns near to San Cris
- Eirian Sanderson Xerri
- Jul 18, 2023
- 3 min read
Trigger warning for this post: animal violence, animal cruelty, religious sacrifice, cult behaviour, alcohol consumption - the last section of the post titled "San Juan Chamula"
This afternoon I went on a guided tour to Zinacantán and San Juan Chamula. These are two indigenous towns in the vicinity of San Cris, populated by the Tzotzil people.
ZINACANTÁN
We started the tour in this beautiful town. We were introduced to a typical house that has been adapted to sell hand-made artisenal clothing. A young girl greeted us in her native language of Tzotzil, and invited us to film her if we wished. This is the language they use to communicate as a community although they all speak Spanish fluently, too.
We were shown how the clothes were made and were taken through the history of clothing for men and women and how they've changed and adapted over time.
We were invited to try some pox (pronounced posh), a stong liqueur made from corn that's native to this part of Chiapas. We learnt that it helps to clear sickness and poor health. I can tell you from the fire I felt by drinking it, most of my insides have been burnt away - not just any bacteria!!
We were then invited into the kitchen and showed how to make tacos from scratch in an indegenous kitchen and to try our own.
SAN JUAN CHAMULA
We then drove to San Juan Chamula. I must say, all photos posted here are from the Internet. Our guide was very strict when he told us not to even get our phones out. The people of this town strongly believe if you take their photo, a part of their soul is stolen away. They will fine you $4,200MXN and wipe your phone.
We visited the church or San Juan Bautista (St John the Baptist). From the outside, it looks like any other colonial Catholic church:
Inside is another matter. There is grass and straw all over the floor, and more than a thousand candles. No pews or seats. Groups of men and women sat around in huddles on the floor, chanting and praying, and each group performing the same religious ritual. I watched it twice with two different groups before I left.
The ritual ceremony I witnessed was as follows:
Rows and rows of long candles stuck to the floor with wax. The nearest row to the huddle is so small the flames are almost touching the floor.
The wax of these candles is mixed together with a stick on the floor.
The women and men chant and pray for sick relatives.
A chicken or cockerel is then sacrificed by hand - by stretching and pulling the bird until it 'snaps'. The elderly lady in the first ritual I watched really struggled to do this and the chicken died a very long drawn out, painful death. The second ritual I saw, the lady was able to kill the bird instantly.
The huddle then drink as much coca cola or gatorade or any other fizzy drink as they can in one go.
They all start burping loudly - this is them releasing all of the sickness and bad spirits in their bodies.
They then cleanse themselves by drinking the aforementioned pox liquer.
I haven't included any photos of animal sacrifice but here are some photos I found on the Internet of the inside of the church. I am fully appreciative that I came here to learn about culture - and although I'm no vegan, this was a little much for me today I have to say!
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